It was Tuesday 11 February 2009 at 2000 hours when my brother Ah Ring called to say that Bawk La passed away 15 minutes ago at Tamu.
I got a seat on the first available Myanma Airways Yangon- Kalay flight on Friday the 13th. It was a 44 Seats Fokker, it could be the same one Bawk La and I were on 11 years ago. The person across the aisle looked calm and friendly. I told him I might not catch the 1100 hours bus to Tamu but would he know any other options? He said, “May be, I will see to that”. On arrival Kalay airport I was amazed to see the sea of people coming to greet him. He was shaking hands, talking to everyone but turned to me and told his driver to take me to the bus station. He gave me his name card and said to come back if it didn’t workout. I said my “Thank you” to Rev. Khaw Lian Hre, General Secretary of Lairaun Baptist Association and went to his car, a WWII American jeep. His driver said the engine has long been replaced with a Japanese one.
There wasn’t any bus left. No bus until the next day. I looked at the motorbike standing nearby. The woman behind the desk said 30,000 Kyat, I said fine.
The Reverend’s driver didn’t approve. He suggested I leave the next day, I said
“Sorry, it has to be now”. I know he meant well so I looked at him apologetically and said, “Don’t underestimate me, I am a tough Kachin and very much used to riding motorbikes long distances”. With that I grab the helmet and put it on. “Wrong, that is back to front” he said and turned away checking the motorbike. I took out 5,000 Kyat and said good bye and said how I appreciate meeting a friend like him and asked him to take the money as a token of friendship – he looked at me and said “Chins and Kachins are one family – no need. I am happy to be of help”. That’s when I broke.
On the 88 miles “Kalay-Tamu India-Myanmar Friendship Road”, the motorcyclist chatted away. He showed the passing cars which I hardly saw – – 1964 Mazda 360, American Jeep – so on. He told me to visit India as I am already on the border. “There will be no formalities for Myanmar citizen unlike the requirement for the opposite direction”, he said. He talked of the current exchange rate of MMK 2,130 to 100 Rupees. Maybe because he saw earlier how easily I could become tearful and felt obliged to keep me happy. Half way down, we caught up with the bus which was halted as opium was found on two passengers. All was sorted out and the bus started to roll. To the great relief of the motorcyclist, I told him I’d take the bus for the rest of the journey.
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